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How to wash a cooling towel

Cooling fabric needs different care from ordinary towels. Here is how to wash yours, why fabric softener destroys the cooling effect, and how to revive a towel that has stopped working.

Step by step

  1. Rinse after use Rinse the towel in clean water after any session with heavy sweat, sun cream or chlorine. Rinsing straight away prevents residue drying into the fibre structure, which is what causes cooling performance to fade over time.
  2. Hand wash with plain soap Wash by hand in cool or lukewarm water with a small amount of plain soap or mild detergent. Work the soap through the fabric gently rather than scrubbing it.
  3. Rinse until the water runs clear Rinse thoroughly. Leftover soap is itself a residue, and it will coat the fibres and dull the cooling in the same way body oils and sun cream do.
  4. Wring and hang to dry Wring out the excess and hang the towel somewhere with airflow until it is completely dry. Do not tumble dry and do not leave it balled up damp.
  5. Store it dry in its carrier Once fully dry, fold it into its carrier case or clip it to its hook. Storing it dry prevents odour and keeps the fabric in good condition between uses.

Cooling towels fail from care mistakes far more often than from wear. The fabric itself is durable, and ours is built for 100 or more wash cycles, but the thing that makes it work is a fibre structure that spreads water thinly, and that structure is easy to clog.

Get the care right and the towel keeps performing. Get it wrong and it slowly turns into an ordinary damp cloth.

The short version

Rinse after use. Hand wash in cool water with plain soap. Rinse until the water runs clear. Hang to dry fully. Store dry.

No fabric softener, no bleach, no tumble dryer.

Why cooling fabric needs different care

An ordinary towel does its job by absorbing and holding water. A cooling towel does its job by spreading water across a large surface in a thin film so it can evaporate quickly.

Anything that coats the fibres interferes with that. Three things do it routinely:

  • Fabric softener, which is designed to leave a film on fabric. This is the worst offender and the hardest to undo.
  • Body oils, sweat residue and sun cream, which build up gradually and are why a towel that worked well in month one can feel flat by month four.
  • Leftover detergent, from not rinsing thoroughly enough.

None of these damage the fabric in a visible way. The towel looks fine. It just stops getting cold, which is why people often assume it has simply worn out.

Washing it properly

Rinse straight after use. This is the highest-value habit. A rinse under a tap takes ten seconds and stops sweat and sun cream drying into the structure. Most build-up problems come from skipping this, not from washing technique.

Use cool or lukewarm water. Hot water is unnecessary and harder on the fibres.

Use plain soap, sparingly. A mild detergent or plain soap is all you need. More soap does not clean it better, it just leaves more to rinse out.

Work it through by hand, do not scrub. Aggressive scrubbing distorts the fibre structure. Squeezing and kneading is enough.

Rinse more than you think you need to. Keep going until the water runs completely clear and no suds appear when you squeeze the towel. Residual soap is a residue like any other.

Hang to dry with airflow. Do not tumble dry: heat is hard on performance fibres, and a biodegradable fibre blend particularly so. Do not leave it in a ball.

Reviving a towel that has stopped cooling

If the cooling has faded and you have never used fabric softener on it, the cause is almost certainly residue build-up, and it is usually recoverable.

  1. Fill a basin with cool water and add a small amount of plain soap.
  2. Soak the towel for about an hour.
  3. Work it through thoroughly by hand, squeezing rather than scrubbing.
  4. Rinse repeatedly, changing the water each time, until it runs completely clear with no suds at all.
  5. Hang until completely dry.
  6. Reactivate normally: wet, wring, shake.

Most towels come back noticeably. If yours does not, and it has been through a wash with fabric softener at some point, the film may be too established to shift. That is the one care mistake that is often permanent.

Storage between uses

Store it dry, always. A damp towel in a sealed bag will smell within a day, and repeated damp storage shortens the fabric’s life.

Our towel comes with a carrier case and hook for this reason: it gives the towel somewhere to go that is not the bottom of a gym bag. Hang it up when you get home, and put it away once it is dry.

If you have used it and cannot dry it before packing, at least wring it out hard and keep it separate from the rest of your kit, then hang it as soon as you can.

What about the end of its life?

Most cooling towels are polyester or a PVA blend, which sheds microplastics in the wash and takes a very long time to break down.

Ours uses a biodegradable performance fibre blend, chosen specifically so that the towel breaks down naturally at end of life rather than persisting as fragments. That does not mean it is fragile: it is still built for 100 or more washes. It means that when you eventually do retire it, it is not leaving a permanent trace.


Next: how to use a cooling towel for activation technique, or back to the complete guide to cooling towels.

Frequently asked questions

Can I put a cooling towel in the washing machine?
Hand washing is what we recommend, because it is gentler on the fibre structure and gives you control over what touches the fabric. If you do machine wash, use a cool, gentle cycle, no fabric softener, and no other items that shed lint. Never tumble dry it.
Why does fabric softener ruin a cooling towel?
Fabric softener works by depositing a thin waterproofing film on fibres. That film is exactly what an evaporative fabric must not have: it stops the towel spreading water into the thin, wide film that evaporation depends on. The result is a towel that feels wet rather than cool, and the damage is difficult to reverse.
My cooling towel has stopped cooling. Can I fix it?
Usually yes, if the cause is residue rather than softener. Soak it for an hour in cool water with a small amount of plain soap, work it through by hand, then rinse repeatedly until the water runs completely clear and no suds appear. Dry it fully and reactivate. This clears out body oils, sun cream and detergent build-up, which are the usual culprits.
How often should I wash it?
Rinse after every use involving heavy sweat, sun cream or chlorine. A proper soap wash is worth doing every week or two with regular use, or whenever the towel starts to feel slick or smell.
Can I use bleach or a stain remover?
No. Harsh chemicals attack the fibre structure that the cooling depends on, and on a biodegradable fibre blend they shorten the towel's life considerably. Plain soap and water handles almost everything.

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